Tom Schroeder Rotary Drilling and Pump Company is proud to provide the highest quality products and service to our customers. To serve your needs most effectively and to ensure that your well and water system are exactly what you require, we provide custom estimates rather than providing prices using a preset fee. This is due to numerous unknown considerations that can arise during the drilling process such as the depth needed to reach an adequate water supply and types of geological formations encountered during drilling. This approach benefits you because you only pay for the products and the labor actually required for your unique water well system. Using the estimation method also allows you to choose the pump brand, horse power, and flow required for your specific needs.
The selection of the pump can also affect the duration and reliability of your warranty. Estimate totals will vary depending on pump selection. Our pump of choice, Franklin Electric J-Class, is backed by its own customer service division which is second to none. Franklin Electric J-Class is still manufactured in America. J-Class, we feel offers a more reliable warranty that can be up to 5 years. Old American brands such as Red Jacket, ITT Goulds, Aeromotor, Myers, Sta Rite, and Berkley are now being manufacured using motors with the CentriPro and Pentek brands whose components are manufactured in China and only "assembled" in America.
We will always recommend the products that best fit your needs, whether it be for home, agricultural, or commercial purposes. In addition, our years of experience of drilling in this region of Missouri enables us to make accurate estimates that are based on current material costs along with factors related to your specific location, such as its elevation, the depths of neighboring wells, and known geological formations in your area. However, you must keep in mind that each well that is drilled is a unique project, and as such, though rare, occasionally there may factors that increase the actual cost of the project such as the need to drill deeper than anticipated or for example because the formations actually encountered during drilling may be broken or layered in such a way that the formation layers are broken and fractured and can fall into the borehole causing increased expense. We make every effort to inform you of all possible likely scenarios beforehand or as they occur, whichever is applicable, and are always happy to answer any questions and address any concerns before, during, and after the drilling process and water system installation. We believe firmly in being honest and upfront with you and we value the importance of providing clear communication and accurate information to our customers.
Regarding our estimation process, please read what one pleased customer had to say...
Tom, we are in the business of developing databases and application software for other businesses. In our particular industry, the estimates we make are much more difficult to get as close to the actual final cost as yours was, particularly due to the way customers typically want to add/change requirements and functionality to their software development projects after the projects are already underway. Based on our own experience in making estimates, we were VERY impressed with how accurate your estimation process was! Our estimate from you was only SEVEN DOLLARS off from the actual cost! We were amazed and quite pleased! Thank you for providing us with so much information about the entire drilling process so that we could understand all of the work and materials described on your estimate form. We also wanted to let you know how much we truly appreciated your ability to so closely estimate the costs associated with our well drilling project. Very professional! We highly recommend your company to anyone else in your service area who needs the type of services your company provides.
- JMM and KAM
Tom can also give you multiple estimate amounts in order to illustrate all of your options to you before you make your final decision. These various estimate amounts could include an estimate of the cost of a water system with different warranty options as well as showing the difference in cost between the pump horsepowers you could choose from. As another example, he can give you an estimate that includes the cost of installing liner all the way to the bottom of the well versus the cost of installing only the minimum amout of casing required by Missouri DNR regulations. Regardless of what your final options are, he will explain the advantages and disadvantages of the options available to you before you decide.
Our Estimate and blank Invoice forms are shown below to provide you with a clear picture of the types of materials that will be needed for your well / water system project to be completed. Tom Schroeder will visit your site and talk with you in person to answer any questions and to determine an approximate location for your well. At that time, he will also provide you with a written estimate
Below these forms you will find line item descriptions to make it easier for you to understand our estimate and invoice charges.
Blank Estimate Form (pdf)
Blank Invoice Form (pdf)
Estimate Form - Line Item Descriptions
In this section is an explanation of charges for the actual drilling of the borehole. When drilling your well, 2 different bit sizes are used, a 9 1/4 inch hole to set the 6 5/8 inch surface casing and a 6 inch hole is drilled below the surface casing down into the water-bearing formations to finish the well. The 9 1/4 inch hole is drilled to start. Although the DNR rules state that the minimum size for this hole is to be a minimum of 8 5/8 inches we increase the size to 9 1/4 inches to allow for more space around the casing. This hole is started on the surface and made thru the dirt, loose rocks, clay, and shale that is normally found close to the surface in most areas of Missouri. Eventually solid rock, i.e. limestone and chert/flint, are encountered. Missouri regulations require that the surface casing be set at least 30 feet into a solid formation. Once solid rock is encountered we continue to drill until we are firmly into solid rock at least 30 feet. The larger bit and drill tools are then removed from the hole and the surface casing is installed. After setting the casing and installing grout, the smaller 6 inch bit is placed inside the casing and lowered to the bottom of the casing where drilling then resumes. As the 6 inch hole is drilled it eventually enters porous formations that are saturated with water. As the hole is drilled deeper into the saturation zone the more water flow the well produces. We recommend that the yield of the well should produce at least 2 to 3 times the anticipated pump flow. The extra water produced by the well will allow for lowering water levels and decreased production of water that naturally occurs in periods of extended dry weather and over time as the well gets older.
Different areas of the state require different minimum casing depths depending on location. These different locations are referred to as "Area"s. To determine the Area your well is located you may consult the "Missouri Well Construction Rules" (pdf) on our "Consumer Info" page. In most cases in extreme central Missouri the minimum casing depth is eighty feet. Solid rock must be encountered for at least thirty feet before casing can be set. Shale formations should be drilled thru until solid rock is encountered for thirty feet. The surface casing we use in over 90% of our newly constructed wells is schedule 40 pvc plastic casing. It is ideal for use in most wells in our area. Using plastic prevents rust and iron problems that are often associated with the use of steel casing. It is welded together using a solvent so it is quicker and easier to install and can usually be installed in less than a third of the time it takes to install steel casing. This helps keep the cost of well construction down. While plastic is our preferred casing of choice, it does have its limitations. Each 20 foot length of plastic casing weighs 75 pounds. Due to weight limitations at the bottom of the column of casing we are advised by our pipe manufacturers not to set more than 140 to 150 feet. Heavier wall plastic casing is available for deeper settings but use of the heavier casing requires a larger diameter hole that result in higher costs. It also is not possible to push or drive on plastic casing, therefore, if the borehole contains formations that are caving in, then steel casing is required. Steel casing can be pnuematically driven so it is perfect for driving thru bad formations or when more than 140 feet of surface casing is required. It is joined together using an electric arc welder greatly increasing installation time which, in turn, results in higher installation costs. Steel casing is also susceptible to rust problems created over time. As the casing ages it rusts and eventually will produce a rusty scale that can fall into the water causing water quality problems. Rust particles can also cause excessive wearing of the pump impellers. In some cases the water level in the well can rise high enough that the steel casing can come into contact with the well water. The resulting biological and chemical reactions can result in taste, odor, and discoloration problems necessitating the need for expensive water treatment systems.
After setting the surface casing a smaller diameter hole is constructed to supply the needed well yield. After yield testing the well compressed air is used to flush until clear. The tool string is then removed from the well. This process takes about 10 minutes per 100 foot of depth. With all the drill pipe removed the hole is now awaiting the final process that tranforms the hole into a well. A 4.5 inch diameter pvc liner is installed to the bottom. The liner serves a dual purpose as a conduit to protect the integrity of the borehole as well as serving as a screen to protect the internal parts of the pump. The installation of the liner prevents a multitude of problems such as cave-ins, sedimentation, and abrasion to the pump, pipe, or wire after it is installed in the well. The formations that are drilled into below the surface casing, though considered solid, are still susceptible to cave-in. The formations that are left standing in water can soften over time. As they soften they can dissolve and wash loose as the water level draws down. During draw down the water level lowers as the pump runs and then rises once the pump shuts off. The continuation of this process over time causes small particles of sand and grit to loosen and fall into the water. If these particles are above the pump they could be picked up by the pump when its running causeing unnecessary wear and abrasion to the pump's impellers. If the particles are large enough they could become lodged in the impellers causing the pump to lock up, thus the need for a service call and labor to repair or replace the pump. To allow adequate water flow into the liner a skill saw is used to systematically cut a series of slots into the liner. There must be enough slots cut into the liner to allow enough water to flow freely at a velocity no more than .1 foot/second. As the pumping capacity of the pump increases so must the number of slots increase. To achieve this, we cut three rows of slots into each 20 foot section of liner. Each row contains 19 individual slots 8 inches long and 1/8 inch wide. Using calculations found in the Second Edition of Johnson's "Groundwater and Wells" publication we know that each 20 foot section of liner slotted in this manner allows approximately 14 gallons per minute of flow. We use as many sections as needed to allow full flow of the wells production capability. Correctly sizing of the slot capacity prevents deposits from iron, calcium, and other minerals to foul and eventually plug the openings. Proper placement of the slotted sections and adequate depth of the well in relationship to the static water level also allow the pump to set at a depth that the pump setting is located above the slots. This also helps prevent any sedimentation that the well produces from entering the pump during pumping. The most important thing to remember about installing a liner in a well is that without the liner the finished product is just a hole in the ground. Installing a liner puts the finishing touches on the hole and transforms it into a well.
To keep unwanted contaminants and foreign objects from entering the well, a well cap or well seal is needed to cap the well after drilling is completed. In the instances where a pitless adapter is used to install the pump, a watertight well cap with screened vents is used. It is fastened and secured using stainless steel bolts and nuts. If the installation requires the well to be located inside of a structure known as a well house the drop pipe exits thru the top of the well and a well seal is used to hold the drop pipe and serve as a watertight lid. Another important part of the cap that is often overlooked is that all caps need to have vent access to the atmosphere. As the well is pumped the water level drops. If no vent is installed then the lowering of the water level can create a vacuum inside the casing. This could cause surface water to be introduced into the well around the casing if the well is not grouted properly as is the case with most older wells constructed before 1987-1988. These vent opening must be adequately screened to prevent insect and rodent intrusion and placed high enough above grade to protect from water intrusion in case of flooding.
Each time a well is constructed in the state of Missouri the well driller and/or pump installer is required to submit a completed certification form with the appropriate fees to the Department of Natural Resources. A problem with this system is that rarely is all the needed information recorded on the forms. Vital statistics that are often not reported are accurate well yields, measured static water levels, pump flow, and horsepower. All the information required on the form is the minimum information required to properly document your well's characteristics. This information can be helpful when future expansion is considered or repairs are needed. Part of the cost of your well is related to this system of certification. While it is the contractor's responsibility to send in the fees and the completed form, we would recommend to the customer that you double check to make sure the well and pump installation records are properly submitted. This can be done online on the Missouri DNR website. The link can be found at http://dnr.mo.gov/mowells/publicLanding.do. You can also call the DNR Division of Wellhead Protection directly at 573 368 2165.
Packers and Drive Shoe
When plastic surface casing is used in the construction of your well, a rubber "boot" known as a packer is required to help hold the casing on the bottom of the borehole. This boot also helps prevent the grout from entering around the bottom of the casing once drilling resumes after the surface casing has been set. The packer is secured to the plastic casing using a large stainless steel clamp. Smaller packers are available for use with the liner to help seal out water from unwanted formations encountered below the surface casing. They can also be used when steel casing is used to trap the debris that fall into the well as the steel casing ages and rusts. Drive shoes are required when installing steel casing. The drive shoe is a hardened steel collar that is welded to the bottom of the first section of steel casing. It adds extra strength to the casing and strengthens the casing where it mates to the bottom of the hole. This helps prevent damage to the sealing area of the casing. It also allows the casing to be pneumatically driven preventing damage to the casing which could also prevent the grout from sealing.
A process known as grouting is used to seal the outside of the surface casing This prevents surface water contamination. To do its job correctly the grout is needs to find its way around the casing to the bottom of the borehole thru an opening which in most cases is less than 1.25 inches in width. The DNR"s rules state that at least the bottom 30 feet of annular space must be filled with grout although the best upgrade a customer can make in the construction of a water well is to fill the entire annular space around the casing with grout. For every 30 feet of casing, six bags of grout are needed to completely fill the annular space. In most cases the grout is installed using the gravity method as described in the DNR's Construction Rules for Wells and Water Systems. Cement and betonite are approved for use as a grout material for all wells in Missouri.
Cement is more expensive and labor intensive to install, however we feel it provides a more reliable casing seal. In all cases, our choice is to use cement grout which is portland cement mixed with water. The mix gives the grout the consistency of a thin slurry which allows it to find its way to the bottom of the casing thru the limited opening around the casing . It is poured into the well in most cases and its consistency allows it to flow freely past any obstructions that sometimes fall into the hole while the casing is being installed. It can find its way past most obstructions so that it ends up around the bottom of the casing where it seals the surface casing as it is intended. It makes for a solid permanent seal for the surface casing to insure for years to come that no surface water contamination is introduced into the potable water source below the surface casing.
Bentonite is another form of grout used by some drillers in Missouri. It comes in many forms: 3/6 inch chips, 1/4 inch pellets with a slow dissolving coating, and powder form to be mixed with water which makes for a very thick almost solid slurry. In most cases the 3/8 inch chips are used by pouring the chips out of the bag around the casing in dry form. Bentonite is a clay that is mined from various areas of the United States. Its characteristics are that it rapidly absorbs moisture causing it to swell and become sticky. These characteristics make it a poor choice to use when grouting in the limited space around the casing. Although the casing is only 6 5/8 inches in diameter, the couplings located every 20 feet are a little more than 7 inches in diameter. This leaves barely an inch of space around the casing for the chips to fall thru in perfect conditions. If the dirt, rocks, and clay swell from hydration or are loosened by the washing effect that happens during the drilling process as happens in most cases then the hole size around the casing can be reduced greatly leaving only a small space for the chips to work their way past. Compounding this problem is the fact that the coupled areas have a large squared lip that also makes it difficult for the chips to find their way past. As the chips fall into the hole they contact the dirt, rocks, and clay that have been hydrated because of the drilling process. This contact with the borehole surface causes the dry bentonite to become hydrated thus making it swell and become sticky. As the bentonite "tumbles" into the hole it bounces back and forth between the outer diameter of the borehole and casing. The tumbling effect causes the velocity of the falling bentonite to slow. If the diameter decreases enough and the bentonite swells and becomes sticky enough it has the tendency to become trapped before it reaches the bottom of the borehole. We believe this happens in most cases and if this does happen, then the bentonite is trapped well above the area it needs to be and the surface casing is unable to be sealed allowing surface water and contamination to enter the potable water supply area of the well. The moral of the story here is that easier and cheaper is not always better. For this reason our choice is to use cement grout instead of bentonite.
Our pump of choice is the Franklin Electric J-Class line of submersible pumps. Franklin Electric offers a conventional pumping system that operates on a 20 pound differential or the new technology known as Constant Pressure. The conventional system uses a pressure switch and larger tank capacities to control the pumps operation. Larger conventional systems 2 horsepower or greater also require the use of a control box. The Franklin Electric Constant Pressure system uses different technology requiring a smaller tank but a more expensive variable frequency drive (VFD) to run the pump motor. It is operated using a durable yet inexpensive pressure sensor to control the operation of the pump. If the conventional system is sized with the correct amount of tank capacity there is very little difference in price between the two systems. All of these products are American made and backed by manufacturers warranties of up to five years on the motor and liquid end, one year warranty on the control box, three years on the VFD.
There are cheaper pumping systems available but all are imported from Europe or China. Old American brands such as Red Jacket, Goulds, StaRite, Aeromotor, and Myers are now manufactured by Pentek and CentriPro with some of the assembly process taking place in America. The Grundfos brand is imported from Denmark and customer service from the manufacturer has long been a problem with the Grundfos brand. All of these products have constant pressure technology but are controlled using high priced pressure transducers. Transducers are prone to failure from lightning and power surges. Savings of $1000 or more could be achieved by mix matching imported components from these companies but there are questions pertaining to the quality of these brands and the reliability of their customer service.
Schedule 80 Pump Pipe
Our pump installations use high quality American made pvc pipe manufactured by PW Pipe or Jet Stream. Pipe manufacturers have engineered guidelines to follow regarding the maximum setting depth depending on pipe size, flow, setting depth, wire size, and static water level. We follow all guidelines set forth by our pipe manufacturers. To properly size the drop pipe according to flow we use the flow specifications found in the Friction Loss section of Cameron's Hydraulic Data manual. To adapt smaller pipe sizes to a pump with a different sized discharge we use a stainless steel bushing, not a cheap plastic bushing that could crack, fail, and cause the pump to fall into the bottom of the well. In instances where the pump setting depth is less than 400 feet and pumping flow rate is less than 12 gallons per minute (GPM) we use 1 inch pipe. 1 1/4 inch pipe is used when the pump flow rate will range between 12 to 25 GPM and 2 inch pipe is used when flow rates exceed 25 GPM up to 60 GPM. For domestic use when well yields allow our rule of thumb is to set the pump in 100 feet of water. In instances where pump flows will be greater than 20 GPM then our setting depth will vary depending on whether a known accurate well yield can be determined from a reliable source. In some cases the setting depth could be more than 100 feet in water.
When installed for flows less than 20 GPM in cases where the well has a yield greater than twice the flow of the pump it is never necessary to set the pump deeper than 100 feet in water. Setting pumps over 100 feet in water is a shrewd tactic, and is often used by pump installers trying to increase profits. But this practice adds little if any value to your water system. If the pump fails and has to be pulled for repair or replaced then the excessive setting depth only adds more unnecessary cost to the repair. As we stated earlier, the DNR Certification process and reporting procedures are done using the honor system. What we have found from our experience, is that most drillers will not go to the trouble to actually do an accurate yield test or static water level measurement. The yeild test requires diversion adapther or the need to build a catch basin to allow the water to be contained then allowing it to flow thru a large pipe. A stop watch is then used to measure the time it takes to fill a container (usually a 1 gallon bucket). Calculations are then done resulting in an educated and accurate flow determination. Failing to follow this procedure results in a "best guess" yield which is seldom accurate. When this happens, sometimes the yields are over reported resulting in pumps being installed that out pump the actual yield of the well. In cases where flows are greater than 20 GPM or well yields cannot be verified then contractors are forced to use the trial by error method. Using this method may make it necessary to set the pump deeper in water than 100 feet. Knowing an accurate static water level is crucial to proper pump sizing in both new installations and repairs. Both your driller and pump installer need to have the proper equiptment to accurately measure the static water level after the well is drilled. Because water levels fluctuate a pump repair contractor would also need to be equipped with a water level indicator to verify changing water levels that occur over the lifespan of the well. This information is needed to determine the proper setting depth of the pump. While these instruments are very expensive they are a valuble tool needed to correctly size the pump. Sometimes contractors use voodoo to determine water levels by dropping rocks into the well. Novice repairmen try to guess the water level based on stain lines found on drop pipe they are pulling. In both cases no respect is given to quality assurance and usually the depth reported is far from accurate. When this happens, pump horsepower and flow rate can be incorrectly sized causing the pump to under or over pump for the actual conditions. As our customer, we want you to know that we don't use voodoo and guess work when determining your well yield, water level, or pump size. Our sizing determinations rely on the knowledge gained from proper education based on the factual and true characteristics of your well, pump, and pipe size.
Pump wire comes in various forms. It can be a solid core wire twisted together, stranded core wire that comes in a flat, ribbon style or jacketed for extra protection against abrasion. In most all cases the wells we construct are equipped with a liner so abrasion isn't an issue. Solid core twisted cable is not only susceptible to abrasion, it also is susceptible to kinking. If kinked, the conductor and insulation can become damaged from wear hardening. This can cause damage to both the conductor and the insulation resulting in wire failure. We use the flat ribbon style with stranded conductors. When properly installed it lays flat against the pipe and is secured with Scotch 3M Super 33 plus electrical tape. At intervals of 100 feet or so the wire is half hitched with the tape preventing it from sliding down into the well. The wire is properly sized using our motor manufacturer's specifications. All of our wire also includes a color coded green conductor that is dedicated to properly grounding the motor. Some Franklin Electric motors have a patented lightning arrestor built in and others use an aftermarket lightning arrestor from Square D. For lightning protection of any kind, the motor must be properly bonded to the ground of the electrical grid. Some contractors ignore proper grounding techniques which not only leads to safety issues but also degrades the surge protection capabilities of all lightning protection systems.
The drop pipe is threaded and is coupled together using threaded couplings. For smaller horsepower systems we use PW Pipe schedule 80 pvc couplings. These are rated by the manufacturer according to setting depth and horsepower size. If the setting depth becomes too far or the horsepower size becomes too large then metal couplings are required. The least expensive metal coupling is an ordinary galvanized coupling that is protected from corrosion below the water level by wrapping with heavy mil pvc pipe wrap. The wrap seals the coupling away from the water and prevents oxidation that leads to corrosion and failure of the coupling. We have used this method for over 20 years and have never had a coupling fail from corrosion. Other metal couplings such as brass and stainless steel are available and can be used for usually triple the cost associated with galvanized. Our practice is to give the customer their options and costs and let them decide.
At least one check valve is required in every pump installation. Pumps with smaller flows usually are supplied with a check valve built in to the pump. While these check valves are very reliable it only takes a small piece of sediment, rust, or a chip off of an impeller to foul the check valve and render it inoperable. Most pump manufacturers recommend placing a check valve every 100 feet of setting depth. We recommend at least one aftermarket check valve to serve as a back-up to the factory installed check valve. The use of a second check valve adds a small expense to the overall cost of your water system but the cost of the check valve is a fraction of the cost needed to pull and repair a pump that was set with only one check valve. We use only FloMatic brand check vales. FloMatic check valves are available in lead free brass as well as stainless steel. They are a spring loaded check valve with the heaviest spring available. The actual plunger is made of durable wear-proof plastic that will not restrict the flow thru the valve. There are less expensive check valves available from Simmons and Merrill but they are built using a much lighter spring and brass plungers that are vulnerable to wear and premature failure.
In installations where a well house is not used and to avoid problems from freezing at the well head, it will be necessary to exit the well underground using a pitless adapter for the transition from inside the well to the water line outside the well. This allows the pump pipe and water line to exit the well underground below frost level in a sanitary manner. Again we have chosen an American manufacturer, Campbell Manufacturing, as our source for this product. These pitless adapters are made using high quality lead free brass. Comparably speaking, they are 30% heavier than their import counterparts. They are built with strength in mind which is a good idea for this component. If the pitless adapter fails, the pump, pipe, and wire in the well could fall to the bottom of the well making it necessary to attempt to "fish" the string of pipe and wire from the well. While it is possible to be successful doing this, it is also possible that the pipe string and the pump may not be able to be retrieved resulting in the need to totally replace not only the pump, pipe, and wire but also the well itself. This is another example of why spending a few extra dollars to start with could save thousands of dollars down the road.
PW Pipe and Jet Stream are the main suppliers of our schedule 40 pvc water line. The pipe is welded together using pvc solvent. Again we size our pipe correctly based on the actual flow thru the pipe. Flow parameters for our water line are basically the same as for our Schedule 80 drop pipe. When unusually long runs or systems with excessive amounts of elbows are necessitated then upgrading to the next available size may be done to reduce friction loss. Our pipe is sized using knowledge based on our education, not guesswork due to a lack of education. Properly sizing of the pipe will ensure efficient operation of the pump as well as ensure efficient operating cost effectiveness. In installations where water line has to be installed under a cement pad, we recommend using Service Blue pipe which comes in continuous lengths up to 500 feet. This pipe is the most durable pipe for this type of installation. To make potential repairs or changes under the cement, we install a larger conduit before the cement is poured and then the proper size waterline can be installed through the conduit once the cement pad is in place.
Captive Air Pressure Tanks
Although not new to the industry, the captive air tank is the most modern innovation when it comes to pressure tanks. The air and water in a pressure tank are separated with the water being contained in a flexible rubber vessel while the air is contained inside the tank but outside the water vessel. In theory, if the air stays separated from the water then the air should remain trapped in the tank permanently, making the tank operate with minimal maintenance. If the tank is sized properly according to the actual flow of the tank then the tank should last several years beyond the warranty period. One of the biggest mistakes other contractors make is under-sizing the pressure tank. In most instances the pump installed in a well for domestic purposes is a 10 GPM pump. The minimum tank size for a 10 GPM pump is a 35 gallon. Most other contractors offer, as a first choice, a 20 gallon tank which is the correct size for a 5 GPM pump. Installing too small of a tank leads to premature pump, pressure tank, and component failure. We use tanks manufactured by Flex Con. They are made from either a "fiber wound" fiberglass shell (same material as the shell of the Stealth Bomber) with a plastic liner or a steel shell with a plastic liner. The fiber wound tank is considerably less expensive than the steel tank. They are guaranteed for five years but setting the pre-charge correctly in relationship to the cut-in and cut-out values of the pressure switch should make the tank reliable for 15 years or more. Occasionally checking the tank pre-charge air pressure and adjusting as needed will ensure increased life span of your pressure tank. Our tanks come in a variety of sizes based on the actual volume of the tank. The tank sizes are 22 gallon, 35 gallon, 51, 65, 82, and 119 gallons. The drawdown of the tank at a 30/50 pressure setting is approximately 1/3 of the actual tank volume. Please see our write up on tank sizing in the Consumer Info sub-section, or for more information on Flex Con tanks, visit their website.
Tank Accessory Kit
The tank accessory kit includes all components needed to finish the installation at the tank. These parts complete the transition between the water/plumbing side of the install and the electrical side of the install. Included in this is a 40/60 Square D pressure switch, Campbell brand pressure gauge, brass ball valve for new home installations or pvc ball valves for all other installations, a hose bib for garden hose access to be used as a low-point drain, and a pvc union to allow for easy pressure tank maintenance or replacement. While the union and hose bib are not a necessity to have running water, they do make eventual maintenance and repairs much easier if they are installed initially.
The charge for fittings covers all miscellaneous fittings needed to complete the water system installation. For our pvc fittings, we use solvent welded schedule 40 pvc fittings underground, above ground, and in the basement. For the transition from brass to pvc we use brass fittings and schedule 80 pvc fittings to make the transition link between the brass and plastic as strong as possible. Our frost-free bury hydrants are also installed using only brass and schedule 80 fittings for maintenance-free hydrant installations.
Frost Free Hydrants
We use only Woodford brand frost-free bury hydrants. They are manufactured in Colorado Springs, Colorado using only American made components. The same hydrants that Woodford made 50 years ago will interchange with the same hydrant parts manufactured today. They operate using a simple design that makes them easy to operate and maintain. They are simply the best hydrant available on the market today.
The buried wire that connects from the well to the pressure switch or controls is either type UF wire made for direct burial or for larger wire sizes we may use flat pump wire, the same as is used in the well. This pump wire is not designed to be used for direct burial. It is sized properly according to Franklin Electric's specifications. What separates us from all of our competition is that we protect all the buried wire we install by installing it in genuine gray pvc electrical conduit every inch it is buried. Where fittings are needed we use the proper electrical conduit fittings such as long sweeping 90 and 45 degree elbows, terminal adapters, and LB's. We do not make it a practice to use water and sewer fittings in our electrical conduit installations. When we are done, it will always be possible to pull new wire thru the conduit whether it be for replacement due to defect or the need for a larger wire size. To us it seems foolish to install wire without conduit OR in conduit and use water fittings that make it impossible to pull a new wire thru. This is another reason we believe you are truly getting what you pay for when you hire us.
Line Digging and Backfilling
This covers the cost incurred for digging the water line...
These are used normally on older wells or when a modern well is constructed without a liner. They are expandable up to the diameter of the borehole and are used to hold the pump, pipe, and wire centered in the "hole" to prevent damage from abrasion. They are made from rubber and secured to the drop pipe using stainless steel hose clamps. They are merely just a band-aid to be used on a well that was constructed using obsolete or sub-standard drilling methods. In some cases we have seen them used when a liner is installed, but generally they are not needed when a liner is present in the well. When a liner is used, problems from abrasion are nearly non-existent. Experience shows that torque arrestors have a tendency to rub enough that they wear apart or the clamps fail. When this happens they can cause the pump, pipe, and wire to become lodged in the borehole. If the pipe being used is plastic, it almost always makes it impossible to pull hard enough on the plastic to dislodge the pump without breaking the drop pipe. With this being the case, it only makes sense to do the job right the first time and install a liner when the well is constructed.
Romex wire is used to send power from the breaker to the pump...
Breaker and Disconnect
The pump circuit should always be protected from shorts using a circuit breaker of some kind. We use modern breakers in all of our new installations. We will NEVER bypass a circuit breaker or fuse of any kind to force a water system to work. To do this is not safe and is an irresponsible act that puts not only the customers life and property in danger but also places anyone who comes in contact with the unprotected circuit in danger as well. In repairs of older, obsolete systems, if an old "fuse" system is used, we recommend upgrading to a newer, safer breaker type system. We carry both indoor and outdoor breaker boxes on our trucks and we also carry most brands of modern breakers up to 60 amp capacity including Square D-QO, Square D-Homeline, General Electric, and Cutler Hammer. We carry a full line of older screw-in fuses when finances make it impossible to upgrade to a modern circuit breaker system. Bottom line is, if you need it, it is probably stocked on our truck.
This covers the cost incurred for...